Polki, kundan and jadau: what's the difference?

Walk into any bridal jewellery appointment in Punjab and you'll hear polki, kundan and jadau within the first ten minutes, often in the same sentence. They're related, but they aren't the same thing. One describes a stone, one a setting technique, and one the whole craft.

Polki: the diamond itself

Polki is a natural diamond used in its uncut, unpolished form. Instead of the many facets of a modern brilliant, a polki stone is sliced flat and left close to how it came out of the ground, so each one is irregular and unique. Traditionally a thin foil is placed behind the stone to bring up its glow.

Because polki uses real diamonds, it carries real value and is often passed down. The softer, candle-lit sparkle is exactly why brides choose it: it reads as heirloom rather than flash.

Kundan: the way the stone is held

Kundan is a setting technique. Strips of highly refined gold foil are worked by hand around each stone to hold it in place, with no visible claws. In fine jewellery, kundan settings hold polki or precious gemstones. In costume jewellery, the same look is often made with glass in a plated base, which is why the word covers such a wide range of prices.

Jadau: the whole craft

Jadau means 'studded'. It is the traditional art of embedding stones into gold, usually by specialist karigars, and it includes the kundan setting step. The reverse of a jadau piece is often finished with meenakari, bright enamel work you'll see when you turn the piece over.

So which should you ask for?

• For a bridal set with real diamonds and heirloom value, ask for polki set in 22K gold.
• For colour and lighter weight, ask about kundan pieces with precious gemstones.
• Turn every piece over: the meenakari on the back tells you a lot about the workmanship.
• Ask what each stone is. A good jeweller will tell you plainly whether it is polki, a gemstone or glass.

Caring for polki and kundan

Keep them away from water and perfume, and store each piece flat in its own pouch. Moisture can dull the foil behind the stones. Don't wash them; a soft dry brush is all they need, and we're happy to clean them for you at the house.